India. Hitchhiking and with lists. Part 1. Acquaintance.


This story began a year later with the return from my first international trip – by Hitchhiker from Kirov to Indonesia. If you have enough patience and time, you can get to know him better. I will only say that from that time I had 40,000 left and it was already planned for a new Travel – a trip to India and Nepal.

In fact, India turned out to be only the result of a rather random selection. I had several destinations that I highlighted after returning from my last Travel: Europe, Africa, South America. and Nepal, with its surroundings. The choice fell on Nepal due to its relative cheapness, accessibility and one peak, which travelers from all over the world dream to see, and some of them conquer. And the most affordable way to get to Nepal is India.

It just so happened that India is in conflict relations with all its land-based neighbors, so getting there by hitchhiking is very problematic and even risky. This is the only reason why a plane ticket from Moscow to Delhi was bought.

A few months before the trip, only 30,000 rubles remained from 40,000 rubles. It was necessary to raise money. Then I worked in industrial mountaineering, throwing snow off the roofs, and in a couple of months I increased the budget to 100t.r., while over the norm I bought not cheap equipment and a used laptop. Without equipment, it would be extremely difficult to go to Everest.

Hitchhiking Kirov – Moscow

This Journey starts from the Hometown of Kirov, hitchhiking towards the capital.

I started from Kirov on February 26, hitchhiking. He took with him an old jacket and hat, which it was not a pity to leave forever in Moscow. I had to overcome the frosts and find myself in the tropics. The 60L backpack then weighed more than 20 kg and was packed to capacity. It was not the first time to stop with such a load and in sub-zero weather, and I already knew the way to Moscow like the back of my hand. 1000 km from Moscow to Kirov.

The weather was not the best to go out on the track and stop 1000 km, but it was quite bearable. The more I got cold, the more I wanted to get to hot India

The sun sometimes peeped out and warmed not only the soul. I reached Moscow in 24 hours

Hitchhiking in Russia is much more difficult than in any other countries I have visited. This opinion was formed on tens of thousands of kilometers of hitchhiking in Russia. The main difficulty is to stop the car. A few years ago there were no problems with this, but now drivers fly by, ignoring you, even when they are driving alone, even if the weather is bad outside the window. Many of the drivers cite fear and inconvenience as the reason, but it seems to me that the point is a lack of interest, interest not only in people they meet on the road, but in everything in general. In the first place is “to make money” and “survive.” Many people passing by have a universal sadness on their faces, which they do not want to share.

I was lucky that time, and I got to Moscow by nightfall. Mainly thanks to the last car caught, the driver of which, like me, was heading to Moscow and threw me as much as 650 km. It always surprised me, after such distances in a hitchhiking, how you can talk for so long with a stranger on a variety of topics – it’s cool!

Arriving in Moscow, I got to the nearest metro station, waited for its opening, and then, leisurely, got to visit a friend. It was necessary to sort out the backpack and drop a few things of ballast before the flight.

I had to revise the backpack again. Something to add, and something to throw away. For example, a warm winter jacket and hat remained in Moscow and, possibly, found a new owner.

I hadn’t had to fly before, so there was little jitter. And more for incorrectly executed documents and for being late for registration. There was even a reason. At the front desk they refused to accept me without a return ticket, they say, India has tightened the rules, and the undead do not need a return ticket, which I did not have. Then I took my laptop out of the depths of my backpack, quickly connected to the local Internet, which worked life-savingly. A bit of shamanism and I booked a return ticket and flew to the reception desk with my laptop and reservation number. The girl said that it would work for our side, but whether it would work in India is unknown. It added playfulness to my nerves and my first flight.

I found the plane that was destined to be the first in my life. He did not inspire confidence, however, probably it happened to everyone.

If I’m not mistaken, this is Elbrus

The flight went well, from takeoff to landing and transfer to Abu Dhabi, where it was already about + 30 ° outside. When we flew over the Caucasus, we managed to take a picture of Elbrus, in any case, my neighbor assured me of this, who was filming what was happening. Before that, I saw this wonderful peak only on the horizon, when I conquered the peaks of Adygea.

India. Delhi

And here I am in India. After overcoming, probably, kilometers of tracks and excavators of the Delhi airport, I got to the exit. But it was night outside, and it was necessary to figure out a way to get to the city and find the entry. There is no free internet at the airport, at least for those who do not have a local SIM card. Simka cannot be received immediately either, it is activated only the next day. This created certain difficulties. Russian tourists helped me in solving them.

Two women, who had flown to this wonderful country for the fifth time already, knew perfectly well what to do and offered me to keep them company. They wanted to take a taxi to a small hotel in the center of Delhi and stay there, which coincided with my plans, at least half.

Airport parking in Delhi. We arrived around midnight, so we didn’t have to count on public transport to the city. Fortunately, I met a couple of Russian tourists and they offered to take a ride with them to the city center, and then I could figure out what to do next.

Several taxis were parked outside the airport. I know from my own experience that no matter what country you are, wherever there are a lot of tourists, there will be people who make good money on them. In this case, these are taxi drivers who raise prices to the skies. I don’t know why, but my Russian companions were sure that since the taxi was “state” it would be better not to find it. I did not insist on my opinion, especially since it was not me who paid for all this.

I had absolutely no plan of what to do in Delhi, and indeed, in India. I just assumed that I would find the Internet somewhere, and with it, and registration … I was not lucky with the Internet. Until the morning, I entered a small hotel in the lobby for free and talked for a long time with the first Indians who came.

They brought us to one of the most popular tourist areas among visitors. There are many small hotels here, always open to new customers. It was immediately clear to me that taxi drivers are a share of every tourist brought here.

However, the area is not devoid of its charm. Here, as dirty as on other streets of the city, cows wander and rickshaw carts scurry from side to side, both old bicycle and more modern motorbikes with a yellow-green cab. The city was asleep, on the street there were only single individual passers-by, by the will of fate, not sleeping in their beds and wandering somewhere into the unknown.

the alleys at night are like two drops like the lanes of Thailand towns.

It’s hard not to notice the level of pollution in the city.

Маленькие переулки безумно напоминают переулки Таиланда. Такое ощущение, что бредёшь между сотен гаражей с вывесками и обклеенными разного рода объявлениями на не знакомом языке, продублированным английским.

Добравшись до маленькой гостиницы, где планировали заселиться мои спутницы, я договорился с работающими там ребятами, что останусь тут до утра, а там пойду искать себе приключений, и конечно же, вписку, чтобы не таскать с собой мой здоровенный рюкзак и немножко отдохнуть.

In the morning, at dawn, I went for a walk around the city. Not far from the hotel, an Indian stopped me, met me and offered to go to the most awesome store that I would 100% like! After assuring me that I was not interested at all, and that I had no money for such entertainment, he offered me a simple business. Each store gives a kickback to such people for the tourists brought in, the prices in the stores are about 10 times higher compared to small markets where you can find the same thing. The task is to go into such a store, hang out there for about five minutes and with a pretense that nothing liked going to the next one. The boy offered me 200 rupees for 4 shops, I don’t know how much he had from that.

And I tried it, however, it was enough for me for one store. It cannot be compared with the shops in the markets, which are really very attractive and interesting products in a huge assortment. I would strongly advise tourists to visit such places, not so much for shopping as to know what to look for in normal markets with adequate prices. I spent not 5 minutes there, but half an hour, naturally without buying anything. You can feel professionalism in the trade from the sellers, but sometimes they go overboard and go down to our home appliances consultants. I did not ask for my 50 rupees then, but went on to wander around Delhi.

 Unusual travelers are surprised by many things. And the houses are built at random, and the plants that create the atmosphere of the post-apocalypse, and rickshaws, both bicycle and motor scooters with a booth.

Many roadside cafes have Wi-Fi, but almost everywhere you need a local SIM card to log in, which I didn’t have. I had to wander around to find the Internet without authorization. But the entry to Delhi was found almost immediately. I was answered by a couple of people at once, and, having made a choice, I went to the address.

Here I was helped by a rickshaw who gave me a ride around the city. We agreed on only 50 rupees, although the start was at 400. The road from one area of ​​the city to another, fortunately, not rush hour. Address Jangpura A, 2/24 without apartment number. The rickshaws do not have navigators and they know almost the whole city by heart. It’s hard for me to imagine how they remember such information. My rickshaw found the area quickly enough, but finding a home is something. After a couple of drives along the street with our efforts, we gave up this attempt and turned to the locals. They, too, did not quite understand where, what house. The numbering of houses here is absolutely inadequate, for example, for 7.8 and 9, 17.18 and 13 could go. Between 23 and 25, house 24 was not. It’s just amazing. Somehow we found the house I needed.

My first appointment with a local. I was staying with a guy named Charaya, a yoga master.

The first entry to Delhi was a two-room apartment, and its owner was Vidhi Charaya. But it was not he who met me, but the second guy, who, as it turned out, was also entered as a guest of the court – an Indian named Push. He himself is from Janpur, a town adjacent to Delhi, which is also very popular with tourists coming to India. There he owned a whole park of elephants and was involved in organizing parties and painting on elephants.

I threw my backpack and together with Push we went to have a snack. Rarely do Indians cook at home. This usually happens in large families. Loners eat in roadside establishments that fill the first floors of buildings. The food is very questionable and the water is even more. Drink bottled water if you do not want to be poisoned. I had to spend a lot of time in India, which meant that I had to train my body with local food and water. It was not an easy process, I was poisoned 6-7 times.

The food, especially the first one, and at first did not impress me at all. You can try, but be careful)

The tortillas and lentil sauces went better. The sauce made from hot green pepper is especially gorgeous.

Nearly all eating out places divide food into vegan and non-vegan. The population itself is also divided accordingly. I am an omnivorous creature, so it was easy for me. I wanted to try a lot, just as much I didn’t want to, but the locals really advised me.

In Indian cuisine, the two main ingredients are tortillas (rotti, chapatti) and rice. Everything else is hundreds and thousands of sauces and spices for them, well, salads.

The guy in the hat is Push. Another traveler. He stopped where I was. Interesting guy! He draws on elephants and has his own elephant park in Jaipur. And in the photo he is buying Indian ice cream.

Here it is! I won’t lie, our Kirovskoe is a hundred times better! But in the conditions of Delhi, this will do!)

Indian ice cream looks like this. The taste is not bad, but our Native is not a competitor at all.

This sporty guy Charaya who received us for free at home. It is interesting that most of the Indians are mostly short, and Push and Charaya towered over my 180 cm

A little later, we met the owner of the list, Vidhi Charaya, who also wandered around the market and picked up various goodies. Vidhi himself is a yoga master and, like the vast majority of them, he is vegan. At the same time, he is taller than most Indians, like Push, like me, but even above me he towered almost a head.

Many places have their own unique atmosphere.

The most amazing thing is that it is an installation, while this is a residential building! And yes, it was in him that there was an entry, only on the other side, where he looks completely different.

The streets of Delhi are quite atmospheric. You walk along them, and your gaze now and then stops on various little things and the life of local residents. Sometimes quite shocking pictures come across, like one of the sides of the house in which I stayed. Installation – Vidhi explained that did not explain anything.

On the list. Charaya and Push, my first Indian friends!?

In the evening, Vidhi gave a yoga master class, and now I can more or less stand on my head. Useless skill # 2961. But it is cheerful and cheerful!

After dinner prepared by Vidhi and Push, I went to continue my acquaintance with the night Delhi. In general, it is a very kind and hospitable city, well, in any case, where there is lighting. Here, you should still be extremely vigilant about your valuables, because a poor man who lives in the slums all his life may not resist and climb into your pocket, hoping to buy himself and his family at least some food.

In some places, bonfires are burning in the streets – these are the locals who are trying to somehow cope with the garbage that has filled the city and all of India. After nightfall, the city only comes to life, because only at night the residents return from work and go shopping. The city freezes only after 2-3 nights.

It takes some time to get used to burning garbage on the road.

Many Indians are featured on American brands, including Nike, Adidas and Cougars. In this case, it does not matter whether it is a fake or not, the main thing is the label!)

In the morning I continued my self-guided tour of the city. In 15 minutes I threw the main attractions of Delhi on the map, not that I am a fan of such things, but it would be a shame to walk nearby and not go to such a place. I think it’s nice to go to the part of the city about which you have no idea and then you will be surprised much more often, and the path will be more interesting.

All the first and sometimes the second floors are occupied by artisan shops and mini shops.

Residents of the city wake up very early and go to work, while lazy tourists on vacation wander and look at them, take pictures. this does not prevent Hindus from being cheerful and smiling, many even pose for the camera or wave their hands.

I left the sleeping area where Vidhi lives and walked down the main street towards the India Gate.

“Indian” dryer. Raises many questions … unanswered

Some landscapes look like a break in some patterns, but this is part of why we travel.

And such little friends can be found all over the city, there are a lot of them!

Don’t be surprised that the attractions are not at their best. It is interesting that the entrance inside is not 200 rupees for citizens of the country, but for local 5.

Urinals at a public transport stop. They are not very popular, due to the fact that if an Indian wanted to relieve himself, he would not go far.

Students go from class)

Almost all of these guys smiled and waved at me, someone even gave five. They love tourists here, especially positive ones!)

Even my street childhood was not so harshChildren’s fun – hit the bottle. There is no question of any security.

I watched these children for about 10 minutes. Who are they, where are they from, where are their parents, how many of them will live to 18 … Yes, there are more than a billion people in India, more than she can afford.

Norm. You see this once every couple of hours if you walk around the city

The affluent and touristy areas are cleaned up regularly and they look good.

There are few pedestrians on the streets of the city, but the traffic flow is huge. Pedestrians do not behave adequately from a European point of view. They relieve themselves, sleep on the sidewalks, cross the road, where and how they want, through the streams of cars and motorcycles that try not to enter them. In general, being a driver in India is incredibly difficult, they do not look at the signs, they do not give signals with turn signals, but only beeps and can go in the opposite lane, where it is profitable.

A group of Indians decided to take a picture with me. I already remembered China, the amazing interest in Europeans.

And have a cup of tea for this place

As I understand it shrieks here

This old man gave me a treat for free, just like that.Delicious thing, whatever it is.

  I would also like such a bike as a child!)

The idea of ​​walking from the Gateway of India Arch to the Presidential Palace was born from tired legs, from unworn shale and from the desire to walk along a long and clean road barefoot, on which there are almost no cars. It was really cool and such moments are hard to forget.

such traditional wheelbarrows are used to drive big bumps.

Like the Indian White House. I did not ask for the gate)

The evening descends very smoothly and gently, changing the world around.

the way back to the Gate is the main landmark so as not to wander around the city. I still have an hour to go from them, in the city where I am for the first time.

So the second day in India ended, and I already managed to form some kind of opinion, based on the first impressions. This country is exactly and very much different from other Asian countries, it needs to be solved a lot and there are people in this country who can change it for the better.

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